Within of the project “Gastronomic map of the Vladimir region” Olga Zakharova, columnist for Gastronom magazine and site editor, again visited the glorious and hospitable Suzdal and walked through the restaurants of the city. We take a walk with Olga along Lenin Street, find out the latest gastronomic appearances and get to know the young Suzdal chefs – caring and creative.
Rare for Russia restaurant – family, with a daily updated menu. A plus Chef Dmitry Novokreschenov is also the owner of the restaurant.
Dmitry’s restaurant life began with a home bakery in a village house, where he baked bread, baguettes and pretzels. He worked only with “slow” bread, cooked completely with his hands – without modern breadmakers.
On natural sourdough or with live yeast.
Prior to this, Novokreshchenov, who does not have a chef education, being in France fell in love with local bread. France, on the whole, charmed him, developed a culinary taste and gave knowledge. It even seemed to Dmitry that at home – in Suzdal – it would be enough just to bake bread and sell it.
But this turned out to be not enough for local eaters and guests of the city, they needed food, tables, a menu, attentive service and comfort. And the bakery moved from the village of Gnezdilovo to the very center of Suzdal – to the Trading Rows – and here it has already turned into a bakery buffet “Baker’s Nest”.
For the comfort and attentive attitude to the guests is the sweet and charming Nina, Dmitry’s wife. For everything else – Dmitry himself. So, this is the “nest”.
Home, family nest!
The restaurant is small: an entrance hall, a kitchen, a guest room with a large long common table and a smaller table along the window, a bar counter and 2-3 separate small tables.
Here Novokreschenov receives guests and conducts bakery master classes again of “slow” bread for adults and children.
But not only bread now lives “Baker’s Nest.” Dmitry feeds guests plentifully and with soul. Today we managed to buy an excellent piece of beef, which means in the menu – medallions, a thick edge on the grill or a steak.
I liked the lamb – help yourself lamb shoulder, baked with herbs. There is haddock, guests try ginger fish fillets.
Probably do not get into this almost daily update only restaurant hits. They are constant! For example, “shitty” ice cream is an amazingly beautiful dessert.
It is ice cream, with fragrant olive oil, lemon juice, coarse salt, black pepper, thyme, wheat breadcrumbs and drizzled with homemade horseradish.
Suzdal, st. Lenina, 63A, “Torgovyi Ryady”, entrance from the side of the Kamenka river, opposite the entrance of the Jerusalem Church, bakernest.com
Maxim Rybakov, brand-chef GC “Pushkarskaya Sloboda” – one of the most famous chefs of the Vladimir region. He is a true professional who does not stand still, but is constantly evolving.
It is interesting to try his dishes, it is interesting to attend his master classes, it is interesting to talk with him. Maxim is an interesting person!
Rybakov has his own opinion on everything, is quite frank in his statements and does not want to be “right”. For example, he believes that the fanatical race of many cooks over the whole farming business is not entirely appropriate for the restaurant business.
I am convinced that each guest chooses a restaurant taking into account three factors: the desire for novelty, the need to save (when they go to the restaurant for discounts and budget special offers) and the desire for a certain stability. And Maxim was a vegan for a long time, while cooking meat. “I just learned to trust the tastes of my chefs. I cooked it myself, gave it a try and, if they liked it, gave it to the guests“.
Plus, Rybakov made a movement in space that was not quite traditional for many. He moved to live and work not in Moscow, but from Moscow – back to his native Vladimir land.
Restaurant “Beehive” – a cozy country house. These are logs, massive wooden furniture, village utensils (bows, pots, rakes), natural table textiles, warm blankets on an open veranda, small mini-halls literally on one table in the form of a beehive.
Restaurant menu – the realization of Maxim’s gastronomic worldview. Considering that the best in this world is created by nature, the chef does not pursue many of the ingredients in one dish.
His priorities are a modern look at Russian cuisine, a natural taste of the product, harmonious combinations and a memorable, spectacular presentation. A good example is taiga dessert. This is a mix of pine nuts, cranberries, lingonberries and cooled condensed milk, served in a wooden box with a wooden spoon and spruce twigs.
By the way, cool dessert! Recommended!
The authors of the “Gastronomic map of the Vladimir region” suggested that all project participants “think over the complement from the chef. It could be a very successful link between all the restaurants included in the map.
During the presentation Rybakov just offered his vision of compliments. it buckwheat popcorn, served in parchment fillets, cotton candy with black Thursday salt in the form of a branch of cotton and herring milk on slices of cucumber and radish.
All compliments were elegant, fresh (ideological) and thoughtful. All of them can be cooked “from under the knife” and without prejudice to the financial well-being of the restaurant.
Suzdal, st. Lenina, 45, GK Pushkarskaya Sloboda, www.pushkarka.ru
Gourmet bar Le Bazar at the boutique hotel “Veli Suzdal”
Le Bazar – brainchild Anatoly Komm (in the photo – on the right), where his confidant stands Chef Anton Tikhiy (in the photo – on the left). Author’s comment: This is the situation for May 2016.
Now the chef has changed in Le Bazar, and this is not even Anton Tikhiy.
For Suzdal – this is a rare, single-featured institution. Exotic in everything: interior, service, menu concept, check and serving dishes. This restaurant without reference to the city, region and even to the country.
When you sit at a table in Le Bazar, the feeling that after leaving it you can end up in Oslo, Paris or on the streets of Barcelona.
The restaurant is located in a solid brick building from the 18th century. It is small – only one room and this is its undoubted plus.
Comfort and attention to each guest is always appreciated by spoiled visitors, and this restaurant is focused on them. For them, there are two large long tables for 12 people plus five smaller tables and a bar counter, which from time to time turns into a “chef table”.
This is such special gourmet fun. For 5,000 rubles, the guest receives 8 serving meals plus compliments and, most importantly, live communication with his boss, Anton Silent.
This is almost such a peculiar gastronomic-confidential tete-a-tete.
Otherwise, almost the entire menu is a copy of the menu of a Moscow restaurant. Raff house. Plus a few dishes from local produce, such as Vladimir beef, created specifically for Suzdal. Dishes in the restaurant are tied to alcohol, they are recommended to be eaten with a specific drink – with sparkling wine, with vodka and strong alcohol, with red wine and so on.
There is also a mini-tasting set: leek cream soup with blue cheese and lemon froth, radish roll with ashes, chips with shrimp and chicken liver candy with Crimean port. Most remembered soup.
It has a rather bright and rich aftertaste, a pleasant consistency and a spectacular flow in a porcelain cast from the shell of some marvelous sea reptile.
Since this establishment is declared as a wine bar, you can go here just to drink a glass or another of wine and eat something interesting. For example, ice cream. It is in Le Bazar not only a dessert, but also a snack.
there is ice cream “vinaigrette” with herring, decorated with radish with croutons of Borodino bread and flower salt. Or crabmeat ice cream with red caviar and millet.
Or ice cream with cuttlefish ink and parmesan. If you are going to eat more thoroughly, then the average bill in a restaurant is 2000-2500 rubles, and if you want to try a large number of dishes – and above.
Suzdal, st. Lenina, 82, boutique hotel “VELIY Suzdal”
* Photos of the restaurant Le Bazar provided by the press service of the institution
May 15 completed the first stage of the project “Gastronomic map of the Vladimir region”. Behind 3 weeks and 4 expeditions, 2500 km of roads, 28 gastronomic tourism facilities: restaurants, farms, food production and apiaries, tested in practice by experts and expedition members. Inspirer of the Gastronomic Map Igor Kechter, Mayor of Suzdal and project organizer Ekaterina Shapovalova, author of the concept of expeditions, head of AgroEkoTourism of Russia, On May 16, they presented the results of their work to representatives of the administration of the Vladimir region, journalists, Suzdalians and project participants.
The basket of the best and proven specialties of the region (including cucumber jam, Pokrovsky gingerbread, Suzdal mead, Murom roll) became a tangible, real result of the presentation.